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I hear the leaves are starting to change color back in Annapolis.  There are no trees in Greenland (except the far south) but it is starting to get dark at night.  The darkness brings the cold and it’s not uncommon to wake up in the morning and have ice on the...

Trying to find a good place to anchor in fjords near active glaciers is always interesting.   Like usual there are no soundings so you have no idea where the deep and shallow areas are.  Although it’s deep almost everywhere, right up to the rocky shore, so finding a good...

I doubt any other culture has had to constantly deal with the threat of starvation like the traditional Inuit did.  You would think that the cold would be their number one adversary, but it wasn’t the cold it was food.  10,000 years of starvation changed their culture in ways...

The open polar sea seems like such a crazy theory at this point in history.  Before satellites and airplanes people had no idea what the northern Polar Regions were really like.  Many people thought that “deep water can’t freeze” or “24 hour sunlight in the summer would not just...

  Etah is not a village, there are three small hunting cabins but two of them are dilapidated beyond use. As I was writing my last blog a rather alarming amount of pack ice was drifting to the end of Foulke fjord where we were anchored.  Halfway down Foulke...

  It’s so beautiful up here.  It really feels like we sailed to the Arctic.  Fore instance we don’t get rain we get snow.  Last week we were snowed on a half dozen times, although it never sticks for long.  You’re probably thinking, “Man that sounds cold” but it’s...

What causes ocean acidification is climate changes smoking gun.  Around the world we are burning various fossil fuels for our vehicles, our power, our heat, ect.  When burned all of these fossil fuels admit carbon into our atmosphere.  Before the industrial revolution there was 280ppm (parts per million) of...

The fog has finally lifted enough to sit done and write this blog.  Well, I’m not sitting, I’m standing in the pilot house scanning the horizon for icebergs while trying to write.  We spend our watches staring out into the fog prepared to dodge whenever little berg may pop...

Outside of hurricanes and tropical storms July is a great month to sail the North Atlantic.  Both times I’ve sail the Labrador Sea I’ve had steady Southeast winds around 25kts for days on end.  The Labrador Sea may be foggy and wet but pushes you north at a good...

After rounding southeast Newfoundland we could finally head north.  It’s pretty incredible how far east you have to go before you can turn north heading from the U.S. east coast.  Canada is wider than it looks on a map. It was great to finally be heading north towards Greenland but...